Morocco was right there as we drove from La Linea to Cadiz. Its close proximity really surprised us. Tarifa looked lovely but we continued on. We saw Vejer de la Frontera which looked beautiful up on top of the hill, so attempted to visit it. It was indeed gorgeous and very chic as we did a loop of its tiny narrow streets and got impossibly hemmed in by a removal van. When the van backed down a steep hill, we followed and got out of there quickly. Our next and far more sensible stop was nearby Conil de la Frontera, on the beach and with free and ample parking.
After a wander along the wide sandy beaches and a couple of montaditos in the small streets, we were on our last driving leg for this trip. Returning the car at Cadiz railway station was surprisingly easy. (We still talk about the great Zaragossa epic – 90 minutes driving around the station, Google maps wrongly placing the car hire return, only to finally find a tiny handwritten sign). No such problems here though and a perfectly placed petrol station just before the train station. We loved MapsMe for offline and accurate (so far!) maps.
A quick taxi ride and we were at the Parador. Most Paradors are historic homes or castles made into hotels. The Cadiz Parador is unusual in that it is modern, built in 2012 on the site of a previous Parador. Architects have definitely had fun with this place. It’s quirky and a bit weird and some things work better than others, but we loved our stay. It was a relaxing beach break in the middle of our longer trip and as we found out, the food in Cadiz (pronounced like Cadeeth or more locally Cadi) was fabulous and there was history galore.
Over the next few days, we relaxed around the pool and had leisurely walks around the town, including nearby La Caleta beach.
The Cathedral was one of the highlights. We got the audio guide which included a rather tedious and detailed description about each and every chapel. We loved the crypt with its circular centre – it seemed more like a wine cellar. The ticket also included the tower and like Seville, it was a series of ramps. Great views of the watchtowers and lovely light of Cadiz from the top. The Costa de la Luz is aptly named.
The ancient Mujeres (Women’s) Hospital was under renovation but we were still able to walk through the amazing courtyard. We were stunned to see the elaborate chapel with its El Greco painting.
We loved the squares of Cadiz and the beautiful walkway and park along the seafront.
Our one excursion was a short catamaran ride over to El Puerto de Santa Maria. Only €2.75 for the pleasant 30 minute journey. The castle was not open except for tours and we had missed the English one. No problem. We just wandered around the town, seeing some historic buildings, some beautifully restored, others fairly rundown. Even the Tourist Office had been a gracious family home.
As a ten year old, I loved learning about explorers, so was thrilled to see a water tank used by Columbus and others setting off from here to the ‘New World’.
Restaurants
From the gourmet market to simple and fancy restaurants, we ate and drank very well in Cadiz. We popped into the faded glory Café Royalty for a delicious hot chocolate one day.
UltramarYNos, La Candela and La Marmita were all fantastic and innovative tapas experiences. We had more formal restaurant meals at Balandro (fabulous local fish) and Codigo de Barra. The latter was our highlight. We had the €35 Classic Menu which was a culinary feast. There was a touch of Disfrutar-style cooking with things not quite as they seemed. Wonderful, and for a fraction of the price of Disfrutar and its ilk. Sitting outside on a warm night in the square was a fitting finale for Cadiz.
It was easy to catch the train from Cadiz directly to Jerez Airport and we were on our way to Berlin.
