Setenil de las Bodegas is a strange town built in and under the rocks. Following the signs for parking in the centre, we ended up in a depressingly ugly multi-storey car park. Up a few stairs, though and we were perfectly placed in the town centre. There were cave houses and overhangs everywhere. As with many of the white villages, it was a place to wander rather than see specific sights.
After a delicious but expensive lunch, we headed for our hotel, Ronda Moments. We knew that it was in the countryside outside Ronda but were relieved to see that it was very well signposted from the main road. It’s a former olive oil mill, nicely renovated with lots of shaded areas for reading and relaxing. We treated ourselves to the suite which was huge. The pool is surprisingly situated out in a field and was a peaceful place apart from a tractor harvesting around us!
The hotel did not have a restaurant but did do a simple gourmet tapas meal which we enjoyed on our first night. We had decided to have an alcohol-free day but then they brought us complimentary limoncello so we couldn’t resist. With no such resolutions on the second night, we enjoyed pre-dinner sangria before driving into Ronda.
One day was enough time to explore Ronda. Maria at Ronda Moments suggested where to park, where to get the best view of the bridge and where the best places for lunch were. We followed them all. As she suggested, we walked to the Plaza Maria Auxiliadora and walked down, down, down to get the postcard view of the ‘New’ Bridge, built in the 1700s. Not many people walked all the way down and we understood their logic on our way up. The Puente Nuevo is one of three bridges crossing the Guadelevin river and is the highest by far. It connects the new and old towns . The Old Bridge is from the 16th century and the Arab bridge near the Arab Baths is the oldest from the 1100s. We wandered down to them as well, passing various former palaces on the way. Great views all around and the walk back up through the Cuenca gardens was lovely.
We visited the Don Bosco house perched overlooking the gorge. Only €2 so definitely worth it for a look around a palatial house with pretty gardens, a different view of the bridge and a clean WC! Here is part of the garden and its view.
We were in two minds about visiting the bullring as they still have bullfights. It was heartening to see hat they have symphony concerts and other events so we decided to have a look. It is the oldest in Spain, built in 1785. The history was interesting but a pity that is not yet confined to history, as it is in Barcelona. Adjoining the bullring was the Royal Cavalry, the Real Maestranza de Caballeria de Ronda founded in 1572. There were beautiful stables, an indoor dressage arena and a display of uniforms, saddles and bridles.
For our second dinner in Ronda, we relied on reviews and found Tropicana. It seemed a strange name for a restaurant in Ronda and it did not look anything special from the outside, but we had a great meal. The stars aligned and we got both the last unbooked table and a free parking spot. We shared a starter of artichokes and jamon with truffles, then our main courses were octopus rice and steak. Nicely presented and so delicious. The owners and staff are obviously passionate about food and were friendly and fun as well. It was a great finale to our short Ronda stay.
Next we were off, down out of the mountains for a beach break.
