Arriving into Manchester from Australia via Hong Kong then getting to the car rental village was seamless, but the queue for Avis was LONG! Not what we needed after a long flight. Finally on our way in a brand new very familiar Hyundai with only 15 miles on the clock and the same colour and model as mine at home. With three days to fill in before Mr Frequent Flyer had work to do in Manchester, we investigated nearby areas and decided on the Peak District, so a car was essential.
En route to our accommodation, we stopped in Chapel en le Frith for a pub lunch. I had read that Buxton had been a Victorian Spa town but was still not prepared for its elegance and style. We wandered around the gardens, Opera House, Georgian buildings and indoor garden. The beautiful crescent, reminiscent of Bath, is in the process of renovation. It will be a stunning spa hotel in the future.
Not surprisingly, I had never heard of Well Dressing before. It’s a tradition specific to Derbyshire and consists of decorating wells and springs with natural materials. Supposedly begun when a village was saved from the Plague and the residents gave thanks, the tradition has continued with some very elaborate designs made from flower petals and leaves. We were lucky enough to see some in Buxton.
We had booked The Old Shippon in Alstonefield without really knowing much about the area. It turned out to be perfect! A Shippon is an old word for a cow barn. The cows were long gone and the stone barn converted into a cosy two person cottage. The Shippon is behind the owners’ house, but very private and quiet. The garden was stunning in July with all the cottage favourites like roses, holyhocks, granny’s bonnets and many others in full bloom. After being warmly welcomed by owners Audrey and Martin, we tucked into the afternoon tea of scones, jam and cream, Bakewell pudding (a local speciality) and lemon cake. They also left us a bottle of wine, chocolates and a few staples like milk and orange juice. This generosity, combined with the high quality toiletries, linen and furnishings made for a great stay. There was ample information in the cottage about walks, sights and restaurants in the nearby area. We highly recommend this place. It’s on Airbnb in case you are interested. We slept well and definitely suggest a few days in the country as an antidote to jet lag.
Alstonefield was the quintessential English village. Charming, traditional and unspoilt. It was like a film set for Miss Marple or Midsomer Murders – not a neon sign to be seen, just stone houses, a village green, Norman church and of course the hub of village life, The George pub.
In our three days, we visited nearby towns like Ilam with its alpine style house and historic Hall, now a youth hostel set in magnificent grounds, Bakewell, home of the Bakewell tart or more correctly pudding, now a charming (but busy!) town, Hartington, where Stilton was made until recently and Matlock Bath.
‘Swiss’ houses in Ilam
Ilam Hall Youth Hostel
Matlock Bath
After some indecision, we had finally decided to take proper walking shoes from Australia, partly because Iceland was our next stop after Manchester. They were put to good use in the Peak District! We walked around the immediate area using the well signed Public Footpaths. We walked along Dove Dale from both Ilam and Milldale. The scenery was stunning and we were blessed with unusually sunny weather. England at its best – truly a green and pleasant land.
The Monsal Trail is a walking and cycling trail along a former railway line. It crosses a massive viaduct and goes through tunnels and along a scenic dale. We walked it for an hour or so on our way back north. We parked at Monsal Head which had wonderful views and easy access down a steep hill to the trail but of course it meant a return journey uphill.
View from Monsal Head
Calling into Buxton again, we had a Sunday carvery lunch at The Old Clubhouse Hotel. For £8.50, it was a great deal – three different roast meats carved for you, then you helped yourself to a great selection of roasted and other vegetables. Eating lunch in the upstairs window overlooking the gardens, sipping a glass of wine was a great way to end our short break in the Peak District.
New Places, Old Cases 